Sewing apparatus



Allg 28, 1,945. R. NAFTALI ET AL 12,383,615

I l SEWING APPARATUS original Filed Aug '6, 1957 e sheets-sheet v1 LFNA'ALI. VALENTINE NAFTALI BY HENRY NAFTA' I l A'fToRNEYrug. 28, 1945.RNAFTALI- ET AL SEWING APBARATUS 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 original Filed Aug.6,' 1937 Aug. 28, 1945. RQNAFTALI ET AL 2,383,613

' SEWING APPARATUS Original Filed Aug. 6, 1957 6,Sheets-Sheet 3 q-I m mm N5 'ul-I l` INVENTORS RUDOLF NAFTALI VALENTWE NAf-TALI B HENRYNAF'TAl-.I ATVO'RNEY 2 R. NAFTALI ET AL Aug. 28, 1945.

, SEWING APPARATUS l original Filed Aug.A e, 1937 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Aug.28, 1945. R; NAFTALI ET AL SEWING APPARATUS original' Filed Aug. 6, 19576 sheets-sheet 5 Aug. 28, 1945. NAFTALI ET AL SEWING APPARATUS QrgnalFiled Aug. 6, 1957 6 Sl'netS-Shee'kl 6 nm L -Il W 0.3m n TNEA N N NN REFW. O VLNY mmam U UME RVH Y B tially on.the line 4 4 of Fig. 1

, Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view taken substan- Patented Aug. 7.28,1945 2,383,613 SEWING APPARAT' Rudolf N aftali and Valentine `Naftali,Mount Vernon, and Henry Naftali, New York, N. Y., as- 1 signers toAmerican Machine and Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey lOriginal application August 6, l1937, Serial No.

157,686,-now Patent No. 2,303,380, dated December 1, 1942. Divided andthis application November26, 1942, Serial No. 467,014 f improved meansfor quickly passing a thread` longitudinally through a plurality ofassembled tie fabrics in a single threading operation.

Another object of ourinvention is to provide in a tie sewing apparatusof the character described improved means for properly positioning thetie lining with respect to a. folded tie fabric preparatory to sewing.Still another object of our invention is to` pro-A vide a tie sewingapparatus of the character described, which shall c omprise relativelyfew and simple parts, which-shall be relatively inexpen` sive tomanufacture, easy to assemble and eX- 'y tremely simple in operation,which shall be rugged in construction and at the same time operate witha high degree f efciency.

Other oibjects of this invention will in 4part be obvious and in parthereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction,combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will beexemplied in the construction hereinafter described, and of which thescope of application will be` indicated in the following claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the variouspossible embodiments of this invention, y

Fig, l is a top plan View of a portion of a tie stitching apparatusembodying our invention;

Fig. 2 is a, side elevational view of. the apparatus illustrated in Fig.1; y v

Fig. 3 is a development view of a portion of our novel tie positioningdevice illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view taken substan-k tially on the line 5-5of Fig. 1;

Fig. 6 is a View taken substantially on the line 6 6 of Fig. l;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail View, partly sectional, of a portion of theapparatus shown in Fig. 1, and illustrating a step in the operation ofour invention; j 'l Fig.' 8 is a crossesection'al View takensubstantially on the line 8-8 of Fig. ,7;

' Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 9-9of Fig. 7

Fig. l0 is across-sectional view taken substantially on theline `I 0-10of Fig. 7;

Figs. 11 and 12 are views sho'wingthe assembled tie fabrics andillustrating the means provided for inserting the thread through theassembled fabrics in a single operation;

Fig. 13 is an enlarged detail view in section of a portion of theapparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2J Fig. 14 is a side elevationalView of amodified form of guide means for folding the tie fabric andpositioning the same with respect to the tie lining;

Fig. v15 is a cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line |5'-I5 of Fig. 14; yand Figs. 16 and 17' are details, partly sectional,illustrating modified forms of ourinvention for gathering or drawingtogether the assembled fabric and lining into folds preparatory toinserting a thread therethrough.

Referring now in detail to the drawings, there is illustrated a tiesewing apparatus constructed in accordance with our invention anddesigned for the production of neckties comprising alfabric and alining, in which the fabric is folded longitudinallyA and superimposedon the lining in definite relationship thereto and to a predeterminedline of stitching, said sewing apparatus being'designed to quicklysewfsaid assembled fabrics together by a loose or resilient stitch.

The tie stitching apparatus may comprise a main `shaft 20 journalled ina bracket 2l (see Figs. v2 and 5), said bracket :being in turn mountedon a supporting frame 22.` There is'also journalled in a portion of theframe-22, a second shaft 23 spaced from the shaft 20. The shaft 23'hasmounted thereon a sprocketvwheel 24 for rotation therewith, and isadapted to be vdriven fromV the main shaft'V 20 by means of a second'sprocket Wheel 25 xed to the main shaft 20 lfor rotation therewith, anda chain 26 interconnecting the said sprocketwhee1s 24 and25. There isalso mounted on the shaft 23 for rotation therewith, a wheel member 21having a series of uniformly spaced teeth 21a, circumierentiallydisposed on the rim thereof. The said teethy 21a, of the wheel 21 areadapted to meshwith a corresponding set of teeth 28a on the rim of awheel member 28 whi-ch is fixed to the shaft 29 forfro,u

tation therewith, said shaft being journalled in l a bracket 30. Thewheel 28 is designed to rotate in the direction of the arrow B (see Fig.2), while the wheel 21 is designed to rotate in the oppositedirection;asiindicatediby the arrow A. The shaftk 29 is caused to rotatewhenever the main shaft'v is rotated by means of the following mechanismclearly shown in Figs. l, 2 and 5. l

Mounted on the shaft 20 for rotation therewith is a gear 3l which isadapted tomesh with a gear 32 mounted on the shaft 331 forrotatiiontthere.-

nected by a chain 38'. The bracket 34 isso de.-A

signed as to form part of a rocker arm 35" which houses the. sprocket'wheelsf 36j' and 31.r and the chain 38 and which also carries; at: theopposite end from that of the bracket 34', the brackety 30 carrying theshaft 2'9. The rocker arm 35 is designed to pivot about' the main shaft20 and is adapted to be pivotally moved in the. direction of the arroWC.shown iny Fig; 2 ofy the drawings, to separate the wheels: and 2.1 in;order to promptly positionv the-tie. fabric and lining.

It 's thus seen from the above described con.-l

structionthat when the roekerarm 35.r is disposed in its normalposition, asshown in Fig. 2 of the dra-wings; that is, with the 'wheelsv21 and 28 in mesh, and they main.` shaft 20' is. caused to be rotated,the wheel 21 will rotatie in the .direction of arrow A, by means of thesprocket' wheelsv 24 andj 25-'and the chain 26. At the same time, thewheel 2'8- willbe caused` torotate in the. direction of the arrow B bymeans'of the gears 3| and? 32, the sprocket wheels `and 31; and thechain 38.

Suitable take-up devices 28a and 38a. may be providedf 13o-.take up theslack inthe chains 26 and' 38. The wheel 28 may be'l maintained in mesh`with vthe wheel 21, bythe weight of the rocker arm 352 and the bracket31T, or any other suitable known pressure means may be employed. Toadjust theVdepth to which the teeth 21a; and 28aA intermesh there isypl-'ovided aset screw 35a. attached to the rocker arm 35 and` designedto abut the bedplate 16.

The shaft 20 may be -dri'ven from'. any suitable sourcev of power, suchasa motor (not shown) through the belt 39 engagingna pulley 40 which isxe'dly mounted o n the shaft 20' for rotation therewith. vIf desired, ahand wheel 4I may be provided, said handV wheelbeing xed tothe mainshaft 2U. K

In accordance with our' invention, the apparatus above described isdesigned torgather or draw into folds the tieA lining', and folded tiefab ric superimposed' thereon, 'saidl folds being adapted to be piercedbyfand fed onto a needle. after which a loose thread is inserted'through the folds to resiliently stitch the tie fabric andA theliningtogether. To accomplish this we have provided; arr elongatedneedle 42, as clearly shown in Figs. 1, 2,"1v and 13, said needle beingreleasably mountedV in a needle bar'43l andi-adjustably held in positionby means oftheset screw- 43a. The needle bar 43'may be fixed toa shaft44 ory which may be integral therewith, as shown, said shaft 44r beingjournalled in abracket 45 for reasons which will'become apparent as thedescription proceeds.l The shaft 44- is provided with' a plurality ofspaced circumferential grooves 46 (See Fig. 13) which are designed toreceive therein an arm 41a of a pivotally mounted finger member 41adapted to rotate on a pivot 48 fixed to the bracket 45 and having thearm 41a, thereof projecting through an aperture: lli'sin` the top wallof the' bracket 45. A spring 5B is provided for normally urging the arm41a into engagement with one of the grooves 46.

liromV the above described construction it is seen that the needle 42may be adjustably positionen withl respect to its longitudinal axialpositionto accommodate different sizes of needles. The-wheels 21' and:28 are provided with circum ferential grooves 5| and 52, respectively(see Figs; 4, 7., 9.. and. 110)l designed to furnish clearance for; thereception of a portion of the needle 4:2: therein.

A tie fabric F folded on superimposedon a tie lining T in definiterelation to a predetermined line of stitching, and is .adaptedto be.`fed between the wheels 21 andl 28 soA as tobezgrippedl thereby,Aandi'dueito the action of the rotationrof the said wheels 21' and 28: inopposite directions andto the arrangement ofthe meshing teeth 21a and28a, the tie lining T, and the superimposed fabric F-a-re gathered ordrawn into'a plurality of folds 53I which are-fed on' to the needle 4.2by having the needlepointso disposed as to pierce` througheach. offthefolds, as clearly vshown in Fig. 'l'.

After the whole length of vthe tie lining and superimposed tief fabrichas been gathered into foldsand spittedon therneedle 42, the said needleis slidably moved by withdrawingthe member 41 from the. groove. 45 tovpermit the axial sliding movement of the shaft. 44` a distancesufficient to withdraw. the end portion. 42a, of` the needle 42fromwithin the, grooves 5| and 52. The needle 42. carrying the`gathered. tie` fabric and; lining is then pivotally swung outwardly, tothe, dotted line position. shownv in. Fig. 1 by pivotallyf moving thebracket 45. about the pvot 54, saidv pivot being fixed to a, support45a. carrying the bracket 45, and which in turnis mounted' on theframef22.

In Fig. 1.1.there is shown the gathered tie fabric andlini'ng after ithasbeen receivedon the needle 42 and' after the needlehas been pivotallymoved to the dotted line position shown in Fig. l. A loose threadY 55 isthen inserted through the eye 56 of the needlev 42`, after which theassembled tie fabric and lining are pulled off the needle 42, whichaction causes the thread 55 to pass through the folds of the fabricl andlining T, asclearly shownv in Fig; l2 of the drawings. The assembledfabric and liningmaythen be extended to flatten the'folds 53, afterwhich the stitched tie fabric is turned inside out so that the liningTis properly positioned on the inside thereof, to thus provide a necktiein which the tie lining is attached to the fabric by means of a loose orresilient stitch, longitudinally disposed and inserted in one operation.

ered fabric and lining' orfrto the needle 42, means are provided forsimultaneously rotating the needle 42 on its longitudinal axis while thefabrics are being fed thereon. To this end we have provided thefollowing` mechanism, illustrated' in Figs. 1, 2 and 5':

Fixed to a bracketY 5-1 is a shaft 58, the axis its longitudinal aXis isIn'theaboveI described operation of our tie `of cammed grooves 'H ofwhich is parallel to the axis of the shaftsand 33. FreelyA rotatablymounted on the shaft 58 is a gear 59 adapted -to mesh with a gear65 redto the shaft 20 for rotation therewith. Also rotatably mounted on theshaft 58 isa disk 65, which may be integral with the gear 59 as shown,and which is adapted to rotate therewith. It is thus seen that when themain shaft 20 is rotated, the disk B6 will be caused to besimultaneously rotated by means of the gears 59 and 65. Mounted on theshaft 44 for rotation therewith is a friction wheel 61 which may beprovided with a rubber rim and which is adapted to frictionally engagethe flat surface of the disk 66 so that upon rotation of the said disk66, the wheel 61 will be caused to rotate which in turn, will rotate theshaft 44 and the needle bar 43 as well as the needle 42 mounted therein.

To prevent a bunching or congestion of the tie lining and fabric folds53 on the needle 42 immediately after said folds leave the wheels 2l and28 and tofacilitate their advance movement on to the needle 42, theremay be provided a pair of rollers 60 and 6I (see Figs. 1, 2, 6 and 7)which are adapted to frictionally engage the folded fabrics and toadvance them on the needle.

The rollers 50 and 6I may be driven in synchronism with the operation ofthe wheels l2'! and 28, by means of the following mechanism:

A drum 'l0 mounted onl the shaft 23 lfor rotation therewith, the purposeand function of which will soon be described in detail, is provided witha gear 'I9 fixed thereto for rotation therewith. The gear 79 is adaptedto mesh with an idler pinion 8G rotatably mounted on a shaft 80a (seeFig. 6) which in turn is kadapted to mesh with a gear 8l mounted on theshaft 32 which carries the lower tension roller 6I. 'I'he upper roller60 is mounted on the shaft 84 upon which there is also mounted a gear 83in mesh with the gear 8|. The shafts 39a, 82 and 84 may be journalledina portion of the frame 22. If desired, adjustment means 85 may beprovided in cooperation with the upper roller 60 in order to` adjust thetension between the rollers 60 and 5l. The rollers 6l] and 6| may berotated at a speed slightly greater than that of the rotation vof thewheels 2l and 28 in order to pull away the con gested folds 53.

In sewing together a necktie fabric and a tie lining in accordance withour invention, it is desirable that the folded tie fabric besuperimposed on the unfolded tie lining in definite relatior'iship withrespect to the ultimate line of stitching. We have therefore providedthe following mechanisnf'for assuring proper alignment and positioningof the lining with respect to the fabric, and to such ultimate line ofstitching.

As shown in Figs. 1, 3 and 8 to l0, there is provided a drum 10, mountedon the shaft 23 for rotation therewith, and provided with a paircircumferentially and symmetrically disposed in the lrim thereof.Adapted to operate in said cammed grooves H are a pair of `rollers 12journalled in a pair of guide plates 'I3 which are slidably mounted inslotted apertures 'I4 of the bed plate 16, by meansl of the pins l5fixed to and projecting downwardlyfrom the underside of the plates 13.The roller shafts 12a, are designed to operate in the slots 14a., in asimilar manner to that of the pins 15 and the slots 74. The bed plate 16is adapted for use in supporting the tie fabric and lining as they arefed to the wheels 21 and'28 to be folded. The drum is driven from themain shaft operating therein to slidably -move the guide plates 13 inconformity with the contour of the longitudinal edges of a Itie liningof predetermined shape. It is understood, of course, that the grooves 1|may be designed to accommodate any other desired shape of tie lining.

The apparatus for feeding the tie fabric and the lining to our sewingapparatus will now be described:

The rocker arm 35 carrying the upper wheel 2B is first pivotally raisedfrom its normal position, as shown in Fig. 2, in the direction of arrowC. A portion 76a of the bed plate 'f6 which is pivotally mounted on apivot 11, is moved outwardly in the direction of the arrow D (seeFig. 1) in order to permit the proper positioning of the tie lining Tbetween the plates 13. After the lining has been properly positioned onthe bed plate 16, the portion 16a is then swung back into the positionover the lining as shown in Fig. l of the drawings. Next, the tiefabricF is folded on its longitudinal axis and the free meeting edgesthereof are lined up with respectto an adjust? able gauge member 'I8mounted on the plate portion 15a. In this manner the Atie lining willalways be in proper position with respect to the folded tie fabric sothat lthe ultimateline of stitching will be properly positioned.

When the tie fabric and lining are properly 40 positioned and inreadiness for gathering or in place of thegauge member f8, and which isalso adapted to fold the tie fabric F on its longitudinal axis as it isbeing fed through the wheels 2'! and 28. There is provided a substantially lJ-shaped member 81 having flanged ends 81a which are fixedto a tapered portion 16h of the bed plate 76. and forming a loopedportion, as shown in Fig. l5, in which there is adapted to be receivedthe folded tie fabricvF.

'The member 81 is so designed that as the tie fabric is fed between thewheels 2l and 28it will automatically become folded on its longitudinalaxis. The member 81 is positioned similarly lto the gauge member 'i8 sothat the folded tie fabric will be superimposed on the l'ning inpredetermined relation to an ultimate line of stitching.'

In Fig. 16 we have shown a modified form of mechanism designed to gatherthe assembled tie fabric and liningl into folds 53. Instead of thewheels 2l and 28, there is provided a pair of continuous belts 88 and8.9,having teeth 88a and 89a similar to the teeth 21a and 28a andadapted to mesh in the same manner. The belts 88 and jare arrangedwtotravel inv a triangular path with :the ybases of the triangles inadjacent relationship, as shown, 'in order to provide a larger .contactarea with the assembled folded tie fabric `and lining as they arebeing'yfed on to the needle vAlf. The teeth 88a and Bea are providedlwith grooved recesses similar .to the grooves 5l ,and 52 in order tofurnish `clearance for the needle 42. In this form of construction it isnoted that the needle 42 projects aqgreater distance through the. meshedteeth 788a and 88a than .in vthe yform illustrated inV Figs. `1 to l5.This has the advantage of ,preventing buckling of the needle 42 While:the folded fabrics are being received thereon.` The -belt .88 isadapted to travel on the rotatably .mounted pulleys '90 and to beidriven `by the shaft 23., while lthe beltV 89 is adapted to travel onthe rollers 9! and to be driven by the shaft 29.

In Fig. 17 we have illustrated still .another form of construction forgathering the-assembled tieif-abricfandlining into folds andl in whichthe belt B8 and teeth 88a are employed for the lower member, .but inwhich an intermittent plunger device `92 is provided in place of fthewheel 28 or the belt B9. 'Ihe plunger member comprises frame 93 providedwith an aperture 94 in which there is designed tooperate a cam S5 fixedto tbe shaft 29. Extending downwardly from the frame 93 is a plungermember 96 having an ,end tooth portion 96a ,thereof adapted to bereceived between the teeth 88a. The cam 95 is so designed that when Athesha-ft 29 is rotated,.the frame S13 will reciprocate in Van.intermittent vertical path and kis so synchronized that the tooth Y- n'port-ion 85a on its downward stroke will always strike between the teeth88a to Icause theassembled fabrics to vbe gathered and folded, justbefore being received on the lneedle d2, as shown in the drawings, anotch similar to the groove 52 in the wheel 28 to permit the freeinsertion of the needle 42 therethrough. Adjustable guiding means A 98may be provided to guide the movement of the plunger device 92 as itadvances the belt 88.

It will thus be seen that .there is provided a device in which theseveral objects of this invention are achieved.. and which is welladapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention,and as `various changes might be made in the embodiments above setforth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shownin the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illusl' mountedcylindrical member, means for positioning said lining on the cylindricalsurface of said rotatably mounted member in .definite relationshiptosaid fabric and to a predetermined line of stitching, said last namedmeans comprising a movably mounted guide plate, means for causingsaidguide plate to move laterally with respect to said rotatably mountedmember, in conformity with a longitudinal edge of said lining ,and sothat the said lining will remain in unfolded condition, and an invertedU-shaped necktie fabric guide spacedlongitudinally from said liningpositioning means for progressively folding said fabric, and guidingsaid folded fabric into assembled stitching relationship with saidlining.

The tooth 98a, is .provided with 2,. in al1-apparatus ofthe characterdescribed for sewing together .a .longitudinally folded neck,- tiefabric and an .unfolded lining, a rotatably mounted cylindrical member,means for positioning said lining .on the cylindrical surface of saidrotatably mounted member in definite relationship to said fabric and toa predetermined line of stitching, said last named means comprising amovably mounted guide plate, means for causing said guide plate -tovmove laterally with respect to said rotatably mounted member, inconformity with .a'longitudinal edge of said lining and so tha-t thesaid lining will remainin unfolded cntionship with said lining.

` 3. In an apparatus for stitching a longitudinally folded necktiefabric with a loose stitch so that the finished necktie may be stretchedlongitudinally without breaking the stitch, the combination of aneedleholder, -a support therefor, a needle -held at one end thereof bysaid needle holder, means for supporting said longitudinally foldednecktie fabric with one fend thereof 'adjacent the free end of saidneedle, means cooperating with said tie fabric supporting means forsuccessi-vely gathering portions of the'fo'lded tie fabric into foldsarranged transversely of the length of said folded fabric, saidlastnamed means comprisingva Apair of meshing tooth members so arrangedas to force said transverse folds to be spitted on said needle, means onsaid tie fabric support for guiding said longitudinally folded fabric:toward saidgathering means and in proper alignment with respect to theultimate line of stitching, coacting movable guiding means mountedbeneath said fabric supporting means cooperating with said tie fabricsupporting means for guiding an unfolded lining toward said gatheringmeans `sol-,hat it will be in superimposed assembled stitchingrelationship with respect to said longitudinally folded fabric and tosaid ultimate line of stitching and so thatsaid lining will besimultaneously gathered and spitted on said needle with said fabric,said pair of tooth members being relatively vertically separable topermit the removal of the spitted fabric from .the needle.

4. .Ina machine for sewing four-inhand neckties consisting of a singledoubled over outer fabric and a tapered inner lining varying in widthfrom an end portion toward the center thereof, the combination withfabric stitching and feeding means having a fixed stitching position, ofmeans .exerting av centering bias on the opposite edges of portions ofvarying width of said lining to cen' ter the tapered lining as it is fedto said stitching position, and fabric folding and. guiding mecha- .nismfor progressively folding the single outer fabric of said tiesubstantially along the central longitudinal axis thereof into 4doubledover relationship as said fabric moves to said stitching position -toprovide'a doubled fabric and to guide .the same with the double edge andassemble said fabric l in predetermined stitching relationship withsaidlining moving to said stitching position so as to stitch said edgeandthe center portion .of saidlining togetherto form a reversed necktie`5. In a machine for sevving;fourinhand neckties consisting of a doubledover outer fabric and a tapered inner lining varying in Width from anend portion toward the center thereof, the combination with fabricstitching and feeding means having a fixed stitching position, of meansexerting a centering Ibias on thevopposite edges of portions of varyingWidth of said lining to center the tapered lining as it is fed to saidstitching position, a lining supporting plate, fabric folding andguiding mechanism on said plate for progressively folding the outerfabric of said tie as said fabric moves beyond the limits of saidmechanism to said stitching position into doubled over relationship toprovide a doubled fabric and to yguide the salme with the double edge inpredetermined relationship to said stitching position for assembly withsaid lining in stitching relationship so as to stitch said edge and thecenterv and an inner lining, the combination with faibrc stitching andfeeding means, of means for guiding said lining into predeterminedrelationship tosaid stitching means, and fabric folding and guidingmeans for progressively folding the outer fabric of said tie intodoubled over relationshipA as said fabric moves to said feeding andstitching means to provide a doubled fabric and to guide the same Withthe double edge in predetermined relation to said stitching position forassembly AWith said lining in superimposed stitching relaand travelling`toward said point, operating to v .pleat the fabric and lining and tospit the same on said needle,` and a. gatheringdevice consisting ofopposed elements travelling in the same direction as said pleatingelements for gripping the spitted fabric and carrying it away from thepleating member onto the shank of said needle.

RUDOLF NAFTALI. yVAinrrrrriE NAFTAu.

HENRY NAFrALI.

